Big Island of Hawaii - Kailua-Kona

Big Island of Hawaii

Where to Eat

Huggo’s (75-5828 Kahakai Road, 329-1493, www.huggos.com). Everyone can agree that Huggo’s has great atmosphere: oceanside tables, torches, and contemporary island décor. The casual elegance of this fresh seafood and prime rib restaurant – which has been around for over 35 years – is undeniable. But the food and service tend to receive mixed reviews. For our part, we love it. The mushroom appetizer of shittake and button mushrooms sautéed in soy sauce, ginger, oyster sauce and butter, served sizzling fajitastyle, is fantastic (and if you’re a vegetarian or a mushroom fanatic, you can get a similar pasta dish as your entrée). Our non-vegetarian author loves the New York strip. We’ve never had an issue with service, but then again, we always request the energetic and entertaining “Island Johnny” as our server. Having spent some time working in restaurants ourselves, we’re also fans of the open kitchen. Open for lunch 11:30 am-2:30 pm Mon-Fri, dinner 5:30-9:30 pm nightly. $$$$

A NOTE TO ROMANTICS
In restaurants and bars around the Kona coast, you’ll see women with flowered necklaces called leis draped on their arms circulating through the room, usually selling them for $10. Your companion may claim she/he doesn’t want one, but why not buy one anyway? A lei is a symbol of love, often traded in Hawaiian wedding ceremonies – plus it is intoxicating
to have your head and neck surrounded by the fragrance of plumeria or tuberose. Leis are yet another beautiful Hawaiian way to spread aloha. Speaking of aloha, don’t forget to tip the gal who sells it to you.

Huggo’s on the Rocks (75-5828 Kahakai Rd, 329-1493). The bar adjacent to Huggo’s has live music nightly and overpriced drinks. Still, sometimes you just want to enjoy a tropi-cal drink next to the ocean with your feet in the sand, and this is the place to do it. The sandy area of the bar has a pleasant ambiance and an “Exotic Potions” menu; the Rocks Jungle Juice (strawberries, mangoes and guava blended with light rum) is refreshing, if a little weak on the booze for $8, though you get to keep the coconut cup as a consolation prize. Some of the pupus, like the pizzas, are downright bad. Still, visitors love the live hula and Hawaiian music from 6-8:30 pm, and the rock on weekends. Open for lunch 11:30 am-5:30 pm, dinner 5:30-10 pm daily. $$

Lulu’s (75-5819 Alii Dr, Coconut Grove Marketplace, 331-2633). We have a neighbor who works at Lulu’s; she says tourists often complain that the utility wires spoil the view of the ocean at sunset, and suggest that the city pool its resources to move the offending wires underground. Whatever. It’s a fun, open-air spot with a somewhat irreverent attitude – the walls and ceiling are covered with dollar bills signed by former patrons – and boozy, 22-oz. slush drinks (though the margaritas are a better way to go). A lot of people staying in South Kohala make pilgrimages to Lulu’s “because it’s a real bar” – and burgers are $8 instead of $12 or even $16. You’ll find all the usual bar food here. The rail seats on this second floor establishment are prime peoplewatching seats. Open for lunch 11 am-9:30 pm, bar 10:30 am-1:30 am $$

Tres Hombres Steak and Seafood Cantina (75-5864 Walua Road, 329-2173). This is a much better option for Mexican food than Alii Drive’s Pancho and Lefty’s (though for the most authentic and inexpensive grinds, we love Habanero’s in Keauhou) – good enough to warrant a second location in Kawaihae. Tres Hombres, just off Alii Drive, heading south, serves the usual Mexican staples like tacos and burritos. Try the quesadilla de ajo (garlic) for an inspired twist on a classic. It’s also nice that they have three sizes of nacho platters, so you may still have room for your entrée. Open 11:30 am-9 pm daily. $$

Fujimamas Restaurant (75-5719 Alii Dr, 327-2125). This fusion Japanese restaurant is a fabulous place to indulge your inner yuppie, and pretty much the only place to do so on Alii Drive. This is where to come for designer $10 martinis and “saketinis,” to sit at the sushi bar, in a candlelit tatami-style room, or out on the expansive lanai. Meals are not as overpriced as the drinks, and lack the outrageous mark-up so prevalent on Alii Drive – a $20 rib-eye steak with miso mashed potatoes and shiitake mushrooms? This is a downright bargain in Kona. Meals start with complimentary hummus, cucumbers and pita, but you’ll probably be tempted by the pupus – we love the corn, avocado and jalapeno quesadilla with Asian tomato salsa. Noodle lovers should not miss the handmade Chinese noodles with wild mushrooms and truffle oil. The desserts are equally scrumptious, like the hot chocolate and walnut waffle with white chocolate ice cream. The original Fujimamas is in Tokyo. Open for lunch 11:30 am-2:30 pm, dinner 5-10 pm Tues-Sun. $$$

La Bourgogne French Restaurant (77-6400 Nalani, 329-6711). Offering French food in a fine dining atmosphere, La Bourgogne is one of Kona’s better splurge options. You wouldn’t know you were in Hawaii if you suddenly found yourself transported to La Bourgogne… there’s no trace of Hawaiiana in the restaurant’s décor. An added quirk is that the chef and his wife do all the serving – have you ever had the chef deliver your drinks before? The food is pretty good (it depends on what you order), with ample portions. The perfectly cooked duck with raspberry sauce deserves the raves it consistently garners, and the brie baked into a puff pastry is pure indulgence. Also, the wine list has a good selection at lower prices than the resorts in South Kohala. The chef can make a few vegetarian dishes that aren’t on the menu, such as vegetarian bouillabaisse. Open 6-10 pm Tues-Sat. $$$$

O’s Bistro (75-1027 Henry St, Crossroads Shopping Center, 327-6565, www.osbistro.com). This is the best option for vegetarian food on the island. Vegetarians will understand how unusual it is to have an entire page of a menu dedicated to over 25 meat-free offerings, aka “Food without Faces.” Wow – choice! Formerly the beloved “Oodles of Noodles,” O’s Bistro has Asian and Italian dishes, and options for carnivores too (fish, steak, duck, chicken – all the usual suspects). Chef/owner Amy Ferguson, a James Beard award nominee, was the first woman to be named executive chef of a major luxury resort in the United States (Ritz-Carlton Mauna Lani). Her food is healthy but, better yet, delicious. You’ll want to make a reservation to sit inside, which is chic, instead of outside, which is a a strip mall sidewalk. The spinach and tofu potstickers are incredible, the noodle soups are savory, the eggplant parmesan and grilled vegetable lasagna (three cheese with sun-dried tomato) are divine. Many dishes are available with tofu or tempeh. Lunch features grilled foccacia sandwiches. You’ll want to try one of the desserts, like the chocolate decadence (OK, not everything is healthy.) As the restaurant motto says, “Oh so good.” Beer and wine are served. Open for late breakfast 10 am-noon Mon-Fri and until 2 pm weekends; lunch 10 am-4 pm, dinner 4-9 pm. $$$

Basil’s (75-5707 Alii Dr, 326-7836). If you aren’t a pizza snob, you might like Basil’s. There’s a faded restaurant review posted outside with Billy Crystal proclaiming Basil’s “a great pizza place.” It’s always seemed solidly mediocre to us in terms of both food and service. Kids under 12 eat pizza or pasta free. Open 11 am-9 pm daily. $$

Lava Java (75-5799 Alii Dr, 327-2161). It always seems to be packed at Lava Java, and that’s because of the great food at great prices for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Order at the counter and they’ll serve your food to you on the sidewalk tables along the Alii strip – so peoplewatching
is great here, too. This is our favorite breakfast spot in town. They have fluffy three-egg (or egg-white) omelettes served with breakfast potatoes and bacon or Portuguese sausage, a short stack breakfast of two giant pancakes, fresh squeezed and whipped juices, and Kona coffee. We also love lunches here: the Portobello mushroom sandwich, grilled and topped with gorgonzola butter and roasted red pepper dressing, the salads with organic greens, and the creative burgers ($9 for beef, chicken and veggie, with combos like Teriyaki grilled pineapple and Swiss, or jalapeño and blue cheese). Casual dinners are delicious if you don’t mind the fact that
there’s no wine to accompany the grilled artichoke, butternut squash and rosemary lasagna, or grilled fresh fish tacos. Open for breakfast 6-11:30 am, lunch 10:30 am-4:30 pm, dinner 4:30-9 pm daily. $$

Kona Taeng-On Thai (75-5744 Alii Dr, 329-1994). A Thai girlfriend of ours thinks Taeng-On Thai serves the best Thai food in Kailua-Kona (apart from her own restaurant), which is obviously a sound endorsement.We like it a lot, too. It has a lively atmosphere, is right on the Alii strip, and the food is yummy. The Panang Curry is beautifully spiced for plenty of flavor without the heat, and the Pad Thai is some of the best we’ve had – savory goodness. Special dishes like the Volcano Shrimp, broiled in butter, topped with a spicy sauce and served on a sizzling hot plate, offer a Hawaiian twist on the more traditional dishes. Open 10 am-9:30 pm daily. $$

Quinn’s Almost by the Sea (75-5655 Palani Rd, 329-3822). Quinn’s is unpretentious and very popular with locals and tourists alike, probably because the prices don’t have the typical markup you’ll find in Kona and the resorts, and the servings are generous. The food is fun for families – giant fried onion rings, calamari and chips, catch of the day, sandwiches. The fish is overcooked, the beef tenderloin less than tender, but what are you going to do? It’s Quinn’s. The bar area is a great place to wait for your table; they don’t take reservations for parties of fewer than eight people. One tip: If you don’t like mayo, be sure to tell the waiter when you order your sandwich or it will be smeared on both pieces of bread. Open lunch 11 am-5 pm, dinner 5-11 pm. $$-$$$

The quaint green building that houses Quinn’s was once the town post office, located next to a Bank of Hawaii. In 1972, a waterspout (like a tornado) twisted its way through town and hit the post office and bank, scattering mail and money everywhere. Local lore contends that every single bit of paper – green or otherwise – was returned to the businesses.

Jackie Rey’s Ohana Grill (75-5995 Kuakini Hwy, 327-0209). Jackie Rey’s may be off the tourist path because it’s up on Kuakini, but it’s squarely on the locals’ path – this place is usually packed. For a special dinner in Kona, this is a solid bet (unless you’re one of those people who only eats at waterfront restaurants in Hawaii). The atmosphere is open and friendly, with wooden ceiling fans, bright yellow, green and red walls, white fairy lights, a long rattan bar and vintage Hawaiiana posters. There are crayons at each table so you can get silly on the paper tablecloths, possibly after a mai tai at happy hour (they’re respectable here). The service is friendly, and the food is delicious and reasonably priced. Pupus are great for sharing, like the shrimp and vegetable tempura ($9.50) with a soy-based dipping sauce. The dinner rolls are of the sweet Hawaiian variety, with a touch of coconut. Entrées include the Seafood Trio with the grilled catch of the day, crispy wontons, shrimp kabob and a Thai coconut sauce, not to mention the grilled chicken breast with rice, grilled vegetables and papaya sauce. It’s also a delicious lunch option, with salads, burgers and sandwiches a cut above what you’ll find on Alii. Open for lunch 11 am-2 pm Mon-Fri, happy hour 3-5 pm (pupus available) Mon-Fri, dinner 5-9 pm daily. $$$

LEARN THE LINGO
`Ohana is the Hawaiian word for “family.” In the context of Hawaii, it has a richer meaning because it also refers to an extended family that may not be related. So a child might refer to his mother’s best friend as “Auntie” because she emotionally feels like family, despite not being an actual blood relative. It’s an example of the kind of close-knit community that exists in the Aloha State.

Oceans Sports Bar and Grill (rear of the Coconut Grove Marketplace, 327-9494). Here’s the most important thing you need to know: Oceans serves pupus till midnight. If your airplane doesn’t land until 10 pm, or if you’re full of rum and craving a late-night snack, head to Oceans – this is the only place open to grind. The pupu menu is quite extensive, including teriyaki beef skewers, blackened ahi sashimi, macadamia nut crab wonton and the usual pub grub like jalapeno poppers, hot wings and curly fries. The bar screens surf videos and “Sports Center,” and has two blue felt pool tables, pinball, foosball, a basketball game and, best of all, about 20 beers on tap. There is a terrace outside for a more intimate atmosphere, with dinner items like burgers, sandwiches and pastas. Open 11 am-1:30 am daily. $$

Paleo Lounge Bar and Grill (75-5663 Alii Dr, Kona Seaside Mall,329-5550). Paleo is our favorite spot in Kailua-Kona for happy hour, but no one else seems to have discovered it yet. The second-story, open-air establishment overlooks Kailua Bay and is filled with ocean breezes and rows of orchids. The stately wooden bar is backed by mirrors, and the staff is friendly and welcoming. Pupus are half-price during the three-hour happy hour; dinner is excellent and much more reasonable than the famous waterfront restaurants like Huggo’s and Jameson’s – good steak, good tofu steak. Another significant attribute of this place is the smoking section. Normally smokers are shunted aside, but here the smoking section, aka “Hookah Lounge,” consists of overstuffed reclining chairs next to a bookshelf. Leaning back, you are treated to views of palm trees. Almost wish we were still smokers. Open for lunch 11 am-3 pm, happy hour 3-5 pm, dinner 5-9 pm Mon-Sat. $$$

Jameson’s by the Sea (77-6452 Alii Drive, 329-3195) is one of those restaurants that’s been around so long, and is ostensibly a fine-dining restaurant on the water, that many visitors dine there. But the service and food quality has taken a nosedive; locals know to stay away, but plenty of tourists still leave with lighter wallets and a deep sense of disappointment.
We hope they get their act back together in the future. Open for lunch 11 am-2:30 pm Mon-Fri, dinner 5-9 pm nightly. $$$$

Ba-Le Kona Restaurant (75-5588 Palani Road, Kona Coast Shopping Center, 327-1212). Finding this Vietnamese restaurant was a pleasant surprise for us, and we eat here a lot. The veg-head was overjoyed to finally be able to eat “Pho,” the noodle soup of Vietnam, because they can make it at Ba-Le with mushroom broth instead of beef marrow broth. There are all sorts of savory noodle dishes here, as well as sandwiches made with the French rolls or fresh baked croissants typical in Vietnam. This is a no-frills establishment without table service or alcohol – just onoliciousness. Open 10 am-9 pm Mon-Sat, 11 am-7 pm. $-$$

Wasabi’s (75-5803 Alii Dr, 326-2352). Wasabi’s serves respectable Japanese food and tasty sushi for lunch and din-ner in the Coconut Grove Marketplace. It’s the usual fare with a few special surprises like tempura Maui onion rings. Open 10:30 am-9:30 pm daily. $$

“I generally avoid temptation unless I can’t resist it.” – Mae West

Kona Brewing Co. (75-5629 Kuakini Highway, 334-BREW, www.konabrewingco.com). We visited Kona Brewing Co. in 1995, the year it opened, and asked to take a tour of the microbrewery, the source of one of our favorite beers, Fire Rock Pale Ale. Instead, we were told we could come in and drink free beer with the brewers, who were knocking off work. After a few pints, the sociable fellows did give us a “tour” by pointing at a vat. These days, Kona Brewing Co. has grown into a fullfledged restaurant with award-winning microbrews and awesome pub grub. They even have a satellite location in Honolulu! Their bottled beer is available around the Islands – look at the underside of the bottle cap to learn a Hawaiian word and its English translation. The roasted garlic with focaccia and gorgonzola spread or the strawberry spinach salad should let you know this is more than a pub with chili – these folks have style. The pizzas are great – try the wild mushroom, or have it converted into a puffy calzone for an extra $2. You can eat inside or outside on the large lanai. Reservations are a good idea because this place is usually hopping (pun intended). The service could probably use a little tune-up, so order a high octane beer from the bar before you sit down and you won’t mind any delays. Beer lovers will be in heaven. We acquired a taste for hops when we lived in the Pacific Northwest, so the India Pale Ale is our favorite, but lots of locals are faithful to the liliko`i (passion fruit) wheat – though they go through spells when they’re out of it. Try a sampler and decide which you like best, or take one of the daily tours at 10 am or 3 pm. Open 11 am-9 pm Sun-Thurs (bar till 10 pm), 11 am-10 pm (bar till 11 pm) Fri-Sat. $$

“He was a wise man who invented beer.” – Plato

Cassandra’s (75-5669 Alii Dr, 334-1066). If you’re craving Greek food, head to Cassandra’s. This is Kona’s Greek place, with yummy humus and a fantastic dip called kafteri, which is feta, roasted red peppers, garlic and chili peppers blended with olive oil and served with pita. It has all the standards like moussaka, lamb chops, and steaks and seafood. Lunch has the expected sandwiches like gyros. As you enter the second-story restaurant from the stairs, you encounter the pool table in the bar area. This is where karaoke can be pleasant or obnoxious, depending. Open for lunch 11 am-4 pm, dinner 4 pm-close. $$$

Pot Belli Deli (74-5543 Kaiwi St, 329-9454), a small, somewhat out-of-the-way deli, gets crammed with local folks on lunch break from businesses in the old industrial area, but it’s catching on with tourists too. They serve quick, over-stuffed deli sandwiches for less money than you’ll find in tourist quarters. The Classic Reuben is a favorite, with pastrami, sauerkraut and Russian dressing on toasted rye. Others to look for are Mom’s Meatloaf Sandwich and the Veggie Burger. They also serve up breakfast sandwiches and burritos before lunch. Open 7:30 am-3 pm Mon-Fri. $-$$

Mahina Pizza (Alii Dr, 326-1577). This new pizza place, upstairs on Alii next to Taeng On Thai, has a primo location yet inexpensive prices – the house salad is only $3! The pizza is the best on Alii, with a crust that remains mercifully ungreasy and unsoggy. You can order a specialty pizza like the Poi Dog with Italian sausage, pepperoni, mushrooms, black olives, onions and fresh garlic, or build your own, starting with a small (10-inch), large (14-inch) or extra-large (18-inch) – the large cheese is only $10. There are seats along the railing so you can look down on the Strip, or tables where you can enjoy the surfer motif. This is the new location for what was a popular local place near a laundromat, so owner Darcy must be on to something! BYO at the moment (another way to keep your meal cost down), and cash only. Open 11 am-9 pm Mon-Sat. $-$$

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